CAPTIVE
CARE SHEET SPECIES: Green
Iguana
Iguana iguana iguana
THINK!
Do you
really want a lizard that may grow more than
2 m (6 feet) long eat a mountain of fresh vegetables
daily, and shred your curtains. Adult iguanas
have been reported to be aggressive toward dominant
females in the household.
DESCRIPTION: The
majority of animals in pet shops are captive farmed
in Central America, originally for the food and
now for the pet trade. Hatchlings are about 25cm
when born. Adults can achieve 2m. Nose to tail
though 1.5m is average. Colour varies from vivid
lime green to brown, occasionally with cross barring.
DISTRIBUTION: Found
naturally in Central and South America, they come
from a variety of habitats from semi desert to
tropical rain forest.
HOUSING: Iguanas
grow rapidly. A Vivarium 1m x 0.5m x0.5m is adequate
for a hatchling, it will be necessary to provide
a large tall vivarium at least half a normal bedroom
size to allow adults adequate room for manoeuvres.
A background temperature of 25 C is necessary and
can be achieved by using a heatmat controlled by
a thermostat. A spotlight should be at one end
of the cage above a basking site to raise the animals
body temperature to 35C to allow digestion of food.
The thermostat should be at the cool end of the
vivarium and be set to turn of at 30 C this also
an adequate thermal gradient to become established.
Also at the basking site there should be a Ultraviolet
light source, which will allow the lizard to utilise
the Calcium from its diet.
Iguanas are fond
of water, so a large bowl to drink and splash in
is appreciated. They will also use this as a litter
tray so daily cleaning is a must. Or you may wish
to be more and install a pond or waterfall to increase
humidity.
To establish
adequate ventilation vents should be placed one
at the top and the other at the bottom diagonally
opposite to create airflow.
Any branches
and other decoration must be securely attached
to walls and floors to prevent accidents occurring
to animals or cage.
DIET: Young
iguanas do eat a small amount of insects as well
as vegetables, these may include small crickets,
mealworms and waxworms. Iguanas like people may
be fussy eaters, not all will like the same things,
but you must aim to give a broad spectrum of food
items to give a balanced diet. You may find that
animals will only eat one food type at one sitting
or may be a week. This is a mimic of wild conditions
as fruits etc. are seasonal.
Avoid a lettuce-based
diet as this is little more than water. Try kale,
cabbage, greens, spinach, parsley, banana, sweetcorn
frozen mixed veg(defrosted), cress, kiwi fruit,
strawberries, apple, and baked beans, dandelion
leaves and flowers, Nastursciums flowers and leaves
to name a few. Always make sure that chunks are
small enough for your animal. Sprinkle the food
at least once a week with a mineral/calcium/D3
supplement such as Nutrobal to aid good bone structure.
There are commercially
available packet diet available, which look like
fish food, some iguanas will eat it, though mine
won't, it can also prove expensive. Ensure water
is always available. You may also wish to spray
your animal with a vitamin spray. Feeding is best
done in the morning every day, then anything left
can be removed in the evening to prevent rotting.
If your iguana, is very fussy refrain from feeding
for a couple of days to allow it to regain a positive
appetite.
BREEDING: This
is a rare occurrence in the UK. I am always dubious
when shops sell UK bred animals, as most are farmed
then imported.
Sexing of juvenile
iguanas is very difficult, and even of some adults.
Adult males have a more prominent dewlap, and larger
femoral pore, and tend to look more male in stance.
When being territorial they will head bob, however
so will the dominant female of the group.
Mating takes
place in the winter, with the male grasping the
females neck. Copulation can take 1 - 20 minutes
and may be repeated ver several days. Gestation
is 50 -90 days with eggs laid in the spring. Between
20 and 40 eggs may be laid in a clutch. If you
suspect your iguana to be gravid (pregnant) place
a large litter tray full of sand/ peat mix in the
cage, she will investigate this for days before
laying. Once laid remove the eggs in to a large
ice cream container with damp vermiculite replace
the lid and incubate at 28-30C for 60-80 days.
Once the hatchlings have absorbed their egg yolk
they may be removed to a vivarium. It may take
up to 10 days before the will eat their first meal.
Owning a large
lizard is not cool - it is a major, long-term,
often very expensive responsibility. These animals
are not toys and should never be left with children
or other pets unsupervised.
AUTHOR: Karen
Hollingsworth
29/07/97
REFERENCES: Keeping
and Breeding Lizards Chris Mattison
Breeding Terrarium
animals. E Zimmermann.
PRAS care sheet
number 21
PRAS offers you
this care sheet for your own information, should
you wish to republish then please do not edit or
reformat this sheet in any way and quote PRAS as
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