 CORNSNAKE
CARESHEET
Common Names: Cornsnake,
Red Ratsnake
Latin Name: Elaphe
guttata guttata
Origin: North America
Adult Size: 3-5 foot
Day Time: Temperature
28C
Night Time: Temperature
20C
Food Requirements: Rodents,
Hatchlings feed every 3-5 days. Adults
Weekly.
Experience: Easy
Introduction
The cornsnake must be the singularly most popular kept/bred snake in
the herpetcultural world. Its popularity is down to it's ease of keeping
and breeding and the array of colour and patterns available.
Housing
Hatchling corns should be kept in a small enclosure with adequate ventilation,
Kitchen roll is the best choice of substrate. Fresh drinking water should
be made available at all times and a small hide should be included in
the setup to make the snake feel secure.
Adult snakes can be housed in wooden vivaria, with a wood chip substrate,
again make sure that fresh water is available at all times and the snake
has hides at both the hot end and cooler ends of the vivarium. The vivarium
can be decorated with climbing branches and plastic plants.
Heating
Heat is an important element in the success of keeping snakes alive and
healthy. A thermal gradient should be offered with the hot end being
28C the cooler being 26C for the daytime. Night temperatures can drop
to 20C at the cooler end. What ever form of heating you use be it bulb
or heat mat or a combination of both, make sure you use a reliable thermostat
to control the temperature.
Feeding
Cornsnakes will thrive on a diet of rodents, eg: mice & rats.
Hatchling corns can be fed on pinkie mice every three to five days, by
the time they are a year old they would normally be taking fuzzie or
small mice. Adult cornsnakes eg: 3 foot plus will do well maintained
on a diet of adult mice, larger specimens may also take weaner rats,
on a weekly basis.
Hibernation
To hibernate a snake for the winter, make sure it has had no food for
two weeks and that the temperature is normal during this time allowing
the snake to fully digest it's last meal and empty it's guts. After this
the temperature should be lowered gradually over a few weeks until its
55-60 degree F . The snake should not be fed during this period but fresh
drinking water should be available at all times. After 10-12 weeks the
snake can gradually be warmed up over a two week period and can then
be offered food again.
Breeding
After hibernation and the females post hibernation shed they can be introduced
to one another, males will sometimes not eat at this time being more
interested in breeding than eating. Once several copulations have been
witnessed or the female looks fatter mid body they should be separated.
The female should be given a laying box. A plastic container big enough
for her to coil loosely in it filled with damp sphagnum moss. Expect
her to lay her eggs from 5-14 days after she has shed. The eggs when
they are laid should be removed to another container two thirds filled
with damp vermiculite ( when a handful is squeezed in the palm of the
hand only a small amount of water should be produced. ). Do not rotate
the eggs, and don't unnecessarily handle them. The box should have a
fitted lid, and the humidity inside should be 100%, some condensation
will form on the lid if this is too much and is dripping on the eggs,
the vermiculite is too wet and a little dry should be sprinkled over
the surface to take up the moisture. The eggs should be checked weekly
removing the lid will give a good exchange of air. The Eggs should be
incubated at 80-83 degrees F, expect them to hatch after 58-66 days.
Recommended Books:
The Corn Snake Manual by Bill & Kathy Love
This care sheet is
only intended as a guide. Read as much
literature as you can before purchasing
your cornsnake. Be sure you are completely
aware of your snakes requirements before
hand, and you will be rewarded with a
snake that will thrive in your care.
© Sue
Knight
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